fenderextender
Free Member
I’ve spent a deal of time trying to fit some new pads to a bog standard 2 pot shimano brake. FWIW, the pads are nukeproof semi-metallic – they were a make weight purchase to get free delivery when the Chiggle fire sale was in full swing.
After much piston pumping, cleaning etc, I thought I might as well fully bleed it. This I did – and obviously managed to get the pistons fully back as the proper bleed block fitted in. Popped the new pads in and there is still not quite enough clearance that the wheel spins 100% freely.
The material on the pads looked thick to the naked eye. Anyone else had this? Recommended action? Unless I have a brainwave I will just ride and hope it wears itself in a bit.
Thoughts?
Posted 3 days ago
martinhutch
Full Member
Bleed block in does not always mean pistons fully retracted, Ime.
Is the rotor true?
Failing that, sandpaper is the only suggestion I can make.
Posted 3 days ago
bens
Free Member
Stick the bleed funnel back on and push the pistons back?
Are the pads rubbing on both sides on the disc? Or just one? Did you realign the caliper?
Posted 3 days ago
fenderextender
Free Member
If the caliper is completely loose it still fouls the rotor. It is tight squeeze to get the wheel in even if the caliper is loose. Rotor is true – no issue or ting-tinging with previous pads.
I might try pushing the pistons out again – but unless they wandered out on their own, what would be the point.
If the bleed block isn’t wider than 2 pads and a rotor, I’m struggling…
I think I’m going to give it one ride, then I might just break out the sandpaper and take a fraction off. As I put in the OP, on removing the pads from the packaging I immediately thought “these look chunky”. I’m only running them because hopefully they won’t disappear too quick in the ‘summer’ – I normally run fully sintered.
Posted 3 days ago
spooky_b329
Full Member
If the pads are painted on the backplate, sand the paint off. And I agree with the others, the bleed block doesn’t ensure the pistons are completely back, push them back to be sure
Posted 3 days ago
DickBarton
Full Member
Unless it actually stops the wheel turning, just get riding them round the streets to get them bedded in, enjoy the very short lever throw and sharper stopping…and as the pad wears the gap will increase.
I find that with Uberbrake pads…they are normally ‘fixes’ after 6 rides, but then I’m a heavy brake dragger.
Sandpaper works but I tend to feel I’m removing money, so I try not to sand.
Posted 2 days ago
mert
Free Member
Anyone else had this?
Yes, have had a few sets of aftermarket pads over the years that are slightly thicker than stock. (Paint on backplates, plus “too much” brake material.)
Solutions to both are already shown though!
Posted 2 days ago
reeksy
Full Member
Have you a vernier calliper?
They should measure 4mm including backing. Any more may be too tight.
Posted 2 days ago
frogstomp
Full Member
Sounds like you bled them with the old / worn pads in so they will be a bit overfilled for the new ones (pistons not fully retracted). As above, put the bleed funnel back on and push the pistons back fully.
Posted 2 days ago
citizenlee
Free Member
Had the same with Nukeproof pads and had to sand them down a bit for one bike (SLX brakes) and just rode the others until the scuffing stopped on the other (TRP Spyre).
Posted 2 days ago
thols2
Full Member
I often just fit one new pad to each end of the bike along with one partly one pad then take it for a ride to bed the pads in and wear them down a bit. After a ride or two, fit the two new pads to the front and the worn ones to the back.
Posted 2 days ago
mrauer
Full Member
Pads other than original manufacturer are sometimes too thick. Seen this many times with different manufacturers, have often sanded a little bit off to get them to fit, as others stated above.
Posted 2 days ago
fenderextender
Free Member
Sounds like you bled them with the old / worn pads in
Despite me saying I had bled them with a bleed block in place… 🙄
And I agree with the others, the bleed block doesn’t ensure the pistons are completely back, push them back to be sure
Is the right answer. Annoying how the bleed block allows a tiny bit of piston to come out. Now the wheel spins 90% freely.
get them bedded in, enjoy the very short lever throw and sharper stopping…and as the pad wears the gap will increase
Is the next part of the plan. Although I might run the calipers over them out of curiosity first. Thanks All.
Posted 2 days ago
elray89
Free Member
I have this issue with like 75% of pads. In my case I am almost certainly doing something wrong but it seems to self correct after a short ride around and various centrings.
Posted 2 days ago
frogstomp
Full Member
Despite me saying I had bled them with a bleed block in place… 🙄
My bad – read as pad spacer in my pre-coffee state.
Posted 2 days ago
fenderextender
Free Member
My bad – read as pad spacer in my pre-coffee state.
No worries. My bad too – I was being arsey in my Monday morning state!
Posted 2 days ago
nickc
Full Member
This thread is just one of the reasons I buy OEM pads these days
Posted 2 days ago
cerrado-tu-ruido
Full Member
Nukeproof GXP BB external cups are 1.3mm wider each side than a SRAM GXP BB so there’s no way to fit the crankset on a 73mm BB shell. How hard is it to manufacture to SRAMs dimensions?
Posted 2 days ago
goldfish24
Full Member
Cor, they’re gonna go out of business if they carry on like that.
oh, wait…
Posted 2 days ago
fenderextender
Free Member
I couldn’t stop myself tinkering.
Sanding the paint off the back and a miniscule amount of braking material too has pretty much sorted it. A couple of decent stops should finish the job.
Cheers for the advice. I like to think myself quite logical, but it just hadn’t occurred to me that starting by sanding the back of the pads was the way to go. I would have unnecessarily taken life out of the pads if someone hadn’t pointed that out!
Posted 2 days ago
